The Heart of the Green and Orange

Waterfront

I arrived in Belfast late on a Monday night and was staying at a hostel, but I needed to get there. I had my directions and from the station, I headed down Sandy Row Street to Lisburn Road. I didn’t know this at the time, but apparently Sandy Row isn’t the best of places. I didn’t have a care in the world and when I came across a mural that said, “Welcome to Sandy Row,” I took a photo. Further up the street, there was a dummy hanging from a street light. Quality.

Watch your back!

I found my hostel with a bit of help and in the morning met an American girl looking to do a black taxi tour. There were two German girls that were also interested and the four of us went for it. It was a good way to get a quick rundown of Belfast and learn the basics of what one needs to know about the catholic/protestant conflict on the cheap. Call Walter. We actually drove through Sandy Row and he showed us a mural I didn’t see. On this one there was a Republican with an ak-47… We went up along both sides of the Peace Wall and I even wrote something on the Shankill Road side. Maybe when I go back someday, it’ll still be there. I broke from the group and walked around the city for the day before meeting Pilar, my CS host. All smiles and she’s good fun. She was busy during the days, but we did get to hang out in the evenings. I spent my days exploring Belfast. I really love walking around cities, but Belfast was quite intriguing. It’s small enough to walk from one end to the other in a reasonable amount of time, but large enough to get lost and find something new every time. I didn’t see everything, but I made it through the Botanic Gardens, Ulster Museum, Ormeau Park, City Hall, The Crown Bar for a pint, lots of back alleys, a few galleries, and some pubs that locals can’t even enter.

I call the council into session...

After two nights, I was switching hosts to stay with Roger. I had previously arranged a lunch meeting for the three of us. Pilar made a Spanish omelet that was hmmm tasty. Roger was good people and we hit it off really well. He was able to provide a private room during my stay and it really made me feel like i was a roommate, which provided a feeling like I was home. It helped that we had lots of common interests: enjoyed live jazz at Belfast Empire, took a hike up Cave Hill; talked global impact; and had plenty to drink. Friday, Roger had plans to attend a concert so I arranged to meet up with another CS’er for drinks in town. I was a bit nervous that it was going to be awkward, but turned out to be a pretty awesome night. Ursula and her cousin took me to Kelly’s Cellar for some live “not-so” Irish music and a couple pints with great conversation. The next day I went for a run and did some laundry (Very exciting stuff…). But that evening, Roger and I met up with Pilar on for some drinks and dancing at Lavery’s. It’s a solid place that has it all. The upstairs is a club, the downstairs has two bars (One that plays classic rock and the other a dance party), and there is a beer garden. Something for everyone!

View from atop Cave Hill

2011 Europe - Belfast